Located in the former Drexel House/Alma space behind the Crate & Barrel store in Highland Village, Numero 28 comes to Houston courtesy of co-owner and operator Bernardo Nolfo along with his partners Marco Borghi and Rolando Biamonte. Diners may recognize Borghi from his time as a manager at the original Oporto wine bar in Greenway Plaza.
The restaurant serves a mixture of pizzas, pastas, small plates, and entrees that are inspired by classic Southern Italian fare. Both the pizza and pasta doughs are made in-house daily, and many dishes use ingredients that are imported from Italy.
“We are just making good food that we can be proud of, and the people will like,” Nolfo said in a statement. “It’s not modern or Nuovo — just food that we grew up with and something for all ages.”
Pizzas come as either red or white pies with all of the usual toppings such as pepperoni, prosciutto, sausage and vegetables like peppers and onions. At 12-inches, they’re either a light entree for one or an appetizer for two to split.
The signature pasta is a cacio e pepe that gets a little theatrical flair from being served tableside in a wheel of pecorino cheese.
By Eric Sandler